Why retinol isn't everyone's best friend.

Retinol and Melanated Skin

In the vast universe of skincare, one ingredient seems to be mentioned the most. That ingredient is retinol, and it is viewed as the holy grail of anti-aging which has made it a staple in countless beauty routines. 

What if we told you that for melanated skin, retinol may not be the best option?

What is retinol and why is it so popular?

Retinol is a derivative of vitamin A, promotes cell turnover, stimulates collagen production, and reduces the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines. It's been hailed as a miracle worker for reversing the signs of aging and achieving a radiant complexion.

Retinol and Melanated Skin

Melanin, the pigment responsible for the rich hues of brown and black skin tones, is a built-in defense mechanism against UV radiation. While it offers protection against sun damage, it also means that melanated skin is more prone to hyperpigmentation, including dark spots and uneven skin tone.

Increased Sensitivity

Melanated skin tends to be more sensitive due to its higher melanin content. Introducing a potent ingredient like retinol can lead to irritation, and redness, and even exacerbate existing hyperpigmentation issues.

Risk of Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation (PIH)

PIH occurs when the skin responds to inflammation or injury by producing excess melanin, resulting in dark spots or patches. For melanated skin, the aggressive exfoliation caused by retinol can trigger this reaction, undoing any progress made in achieving an even skin tone.

Limited Research on Melanated Skin

Despite its widespread use, much of the research surrounding retinol's efficacy and safety focuses on lighter skin tones. This lack of representation in clinical studies means that the effects of retinol on melanated skin are not fully understood.

While retinol may pose challenges for melanated skin, it's not entirely off-limits. Begin with a lower concentration of retinol and gradually increase frequency and strength as your skin builds tolerance. Incorporate soothing ingredients like niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, and vitamin C to counteract potential irritation and enhance the benefits of retinol. 

A skincare professional can provide personalized recommendations tailored to your skin type and concerns, ensuring a safe and effective regimen. Consider alternatives to retinol, such as bakuchiol, a natural retinol alternative derived from the babchi plant, which offers similar benefits with less risk of irritation.

While retinol may hold promise for some, it's essential to approach its use with caution, especially for those with melanated skin. By understanding the unique needs of our skin and choosing formulations wisely, we can embark on a skincare journey that celebrates our beauty in all its diverse shades.

References:

• Taylor SC. (2020). Epidemiology, clinical presentation, and diagnosis of acne vulgaris in skin of color. In: Post TW, ed. UpToDate. Waltham, MA: UpToDate Inc.

• Halder RM, et al. (2019). Treatment of facial hyperpigmentation in skin of color with a combination of topical glycolic acid and a low fluence Q-switched Nd:YAG laser. DOI: 10.1159/000503971

• Alexis A. (2019). Disorders of hyperpigmentation. In: Barbosa VH, ed. Fitzpatrick's Dermatology, 9th ed. McGraw-Hill Education.

• Rivers JK. (2020). Photoprotection and sunscreens. In: Bolognia JL, et al., eds. Dermatology, 4th ed. Elsevier.

• Dhaliwal S, et al. (2019). Prospective, randomized, double‐blind assessment of topical bakuchiol and retinol for facial photoageing. DOI: 10.1111/bjd.18228